Since its debut in the ’80s, London has solidified its status as a premier hub for designers, where global icons have flourished amid the city’s vibrant culture, art, and ever-evolving trends. This Spring/Summer 2025 season, we celebrate an array of standout collections that encapsulate this creative spirit. From the modern elegance of JW Anderson to Erdem’s thought-provoking exploration of gender identity and Yuhan Wang’s tribute to female athletes, this season is brimming with innovative proposals that push the boundaries of fashion.
Chopova Lowena
Chopova Lowena’s collection was a daring blend of American and Victorian sartorial influences. Designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons drew inspiration from the vibrant legacies of rodeo queens and showgirls from the American West, merging these iconic symbols with the grandeur of Victorian theatre and costume. The result? A striking juxtaposition of rugged denim and leather outerwear adorned with studs and spurs contrasting with ethereal ruffles, corsets, and bloomers. This blend of toughness and theatricality extends beyond the traditional, weaving in medals, braided belts, and frills to evoke the opulent elegance of the Victorian era.
Adding to the collection’s eclecticism are two standout collaborations. The Margaret bag, created in partnership with Hellmann’s. Designed to carry a jar of mayonnaise, it features a Victorian silver spoon and a vintage blue charm. In another collaboration, Chopova Lowena teamed up with ASICS to produce a special edition of the GEL Quantum 360 VIII sneakers, embellished with butterflies, rhinestones, and flowers.
Yuhan Wang
Inspired by pioneering female fighters like Jane Couch and Laila Ali, Yuhan Wang presented a collection that celebrated femininity and athleticism in a way that is visually and emotionally resonant. The collection is a striking juxtaposition of masculine sporting elements and feminine details. From boxing gloves and face masks to delicate lace and flowing skirts, it is a reflection of the strength and resilience of female athletes, who often face challenges in a male-dominated sport. It also featured a range of other athletic-inspired pieces, such as tracksuits, hoodies, and sneakers. However, Wang’s signature touch was evident in the feminine details that adorned these pieces, such as lace, embroidery, and ruffles. This combination of masculine and feminine elements created a unique and visually appealing aesthetic.
Simone Rocha
Irish designer Simone Rocha made a striking return to London Fashion Week, transforming the runway into a lush, floral spectacle. With a focus on blending masculine and feminine elements, Rocha continues to challenge traditional gender norms while infusing her work with a darker aesthetic. This season marks a new chapter that dives deep into the concept of perfection by revealing the intricacies of her creative process.
The collection featured a fascinating array of incomplete looks, with models showcasing embellished coats and half-finished garments. Rocha’s playful experimentation included tulle-trimmed bodysuits and cutout zip-ups that revealed elegant bralettes beneath. The second part of the show introduced models adorned with three-dimensional floral elements, emphasising the interplay between beauty and fragility. Additionally, Rocha presented her latest collaboration with Crocs, offering platform sandals and embellished flats that seamlessly blend comfort with avant-garde style. This collection encapsulates Rocha’s unique vision, celebrating both the complexities of design and the beauty found within imperfection.
JW Anderson
JW Anderson had one of the most memorable moments at London Fashion Week. The designer’s minimalist exploration of modern prettiness was both innovative and elegant. By setting strict boundaries and focussing on a reduced library of materials, Anderson created a collection that was both visually appealing and intellectually stimulating. The interplay between macro and micro, the experimentation with form and function, and the use of surface treatment and embellishment all contributed to the collection’s success. The silhouettes in the collection ranged from skintight to voluminous and sculptural to slender. All of the looks were paired with flat boots that fell askew on the ankles, and the Loafer bag completed the ensemble.
SS Daley
Steven Stokey-Daley is undoubtedly the designer of the moment, making waves as he opened London Fashion Week with his highly anticipated debut in womenswear. His collection, titled No Suffix, Prefix or Quote, was presented at the prestigious Royal Academy and drew an unexpected crowd, including Harry Styles and Emma Corrin. Known for his distinctive blend of mediaeval elegance and modern sophistication, Stokey-Daley’s twenty-four sleek looks captured attention right from the start. The collection opened with crafted blazers featuring intricate floral embroidery and paired with exposed shirt collars and crochet socks, offering a fresh take on his signature style.
The collection’s craftsmanship was truly remarkable, with hand-beaded skirts showcasing a pixelated floral effect and old-school waistcoats flowing gracefully at the knees. Luxurious textures came through in contoured double-breasted coats with fur-trimmed necklines, while translucent maxi skirts paired with warped gingham and tank tops brought a playful nod to summer. Accessories like angel-embroidered crewnecks and fringed bags added a whimsical touch, rounding out the collection.
Ashley Williams
Ashley Williams’ collection took centre stage with a provocative blend of innocence and rebellion, pushing herself in a way only she can. The runway was a mix of elements—like vintage bunny prints, Kawaii-inspired dresses, and baby rompers—paired with motifs of aggression, creating an intense juxtaposition that defined the show. Williams crafted a story where each look represented a different facet of identity, exploring the push and pull between anger, idealisation, and immaturity. As the collection unfolded, the tone shifted from light-hearted to daring, with leather pieces embossed with gun graphics and T-shirts printed with bloody bullet wounds, making it a complete collection.
KNWLS
Alexandre Arsenault and Charlotte Knowles took London Fashion Week on a unique journey, challenging the conventional notions of couture. While often associated with delicacy, the duo infused their designs with a gritty, grunge-inspired edge that redefined elegance. Set against the backdrop of the former Central Saint Martins building, the presentation felt like a masterclass in fashion history, as they drew inspiration from legendary couturiers like Madame Grès, Azzedine Alaïa, and John Galliano, all while filtering these influences through their distinctive lens.
Continuing their exploration of everyday staples, KNWLS transformed hoodies, denim, and trenches into stunning, sculptural silhouettes. The collection featured daringly low waists, cropped leather bombers, and bias-cut slip dresses that flowed gracefully over the body. Each piece balanced a sense of toughness with innate sensuality, enhanced by signature corsetry, lingerie straps, and lace. Peaked leather fascinators, crafted in collaboration with Stephen Jones, added a sci-fi twist, further pushing the boundaries of couture.
Written by Fernanda Callejo
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